Last few days; Homeward bound

Our intention was to drive up into the San Bernadino mountains to Big Bear Lake but when I woke up and remembered that I've been having trouble with my ears equalizing on even the mildest of hills, climbing 9000 feet before flying home seemed like a big risk.  

So, that went on the list for 'next time' and we drove out along the great concrete highways of California to Ontario Mills, a huge indoor outlet mall. We spent some time there checking out the bargains and then returned to our local Macy's for their super Saturday sale, where there were some great buys in amongst the melee of people and clothes. 

We had dinner at Capital Grille, a restaurant attached to the shopping centre at South Coast Plaza. There was either a long wait for a table, or we could be served in the bar area straight away. Opting for the bar, we were surprised to be given a quiet booth with candles and full service. We couldn't have hoped for better. The service was effervescent and the food excellent! The steaks were amazing. 

Sunday was our last day in LA. Neither of us are ready to go home this time. 

We woke early to the alert system using our mobile phones - this time for a lost child. They're very loud and insistent alerts. 

After coffee we set off to Newport Beach to hire some bikes. $8 an hour each and we were off along the shared pathway, north towards Huntington Beach. Most of the track was on the land side of the first row of houses next to the beach, but it was a beautiful, hot morning and we enjoyed checking out the architecture and people. 

I'm really enjoying taking bike trips on our holidays. The only one I haven't really felt comfortable on was New Orleans when we had to cycle on the road. It's a great way to see somewhere - easy to stop for photos or a closer look, the aromas of the flowers (and everything else!) add to the experience, and you get some exercise! 

The rest of the afternoon was spent in the hotel pool, getting some Californian sun on. 

Packed up and ready to leave at 5pm, I was grateful it was a Sunday afternoon and the traffic (should be) easy to negotiate. The Westin sits right on the I405 which takes us straight to LAX. 

Dom dropped me off with the bags, and then headed back to Alamo to return the car. The car rental places are not far and he was on the bus and back within 30 minutes. It's much easier than lugging the bags all on the bus and off again when you're dressed for cool weather but actually in 35 degrees. 

Check in at Qantas was swift, apart from re packing the bags. This is the first time that we have had to comply with 23kg per bag weight restriction on a mainline carrier. Luckily we had space available in other bags and it was swift reconfigure. I watched a lady in business class, wondering if she'd have to do the same. They made her take out 7 kg - I think she had to buy another bag. Funnily enough I'd seen a luggage store on the way into the terminal, thinking it was an odd place for one. But no. Obviously something has changed here, and good on them, because it can only be protecting the staff who have to lift them all day long. 

We were through security very swiftly in the newly built section of Tom Bradley. Security in the USA is usually not a hassle free event, but it was this evening. 

Making straight for the recently refurbished Qantas Club (closed for renovation on our last flight through here) we toasted the end of another safe and happy holiday, and enjoyed an amazing dinner of butter chicken and slow cooked, melt-in-your-mouth cumin beef. 

So it was farewell to our Ford Expedition, which served us well (12 liters per 100km). It could seat 8 but with the last row of seats folded down, there was more than enough space for all of our bags. We'd added two extra days to the rental as we'd extended the holiday, and that added more than half again to the total cost. Booking in advance through Vroom Vroom Vroom is stil the best and cheapest avenue for hiring cars in the States that we've come across. 

It's farewell to burgers! We ate our final Five Guys cheeseburgers for breakfast (well, if you only have one meal left...) this morning, and it was excellent. 

I'm really pleased with the changes to the terminal at Tom Bradley during the years that we've been flying here regularly. Everything is now seamless, comfortable and attractively finished.

We're the first of the Qantas jets out of here tonight, so we'll be on our way shortly. We're transiting via Sydney, which I normally avoid doing, but it gave us two extra days in LA and cost us a lot less than direct to Melbourne. 

Thanks for reading. See you next trip! 

South Coast Plaza, Day 10

In room coffee and we were in our way this morning, heading to Coronado Island for breakfast. It's reached by a magnificent bridge, and is home to the north island air station, amphibious assault base and every variety of US Navy warship. 

It's quite a pretty place - lovely and varied architecture, neatly manicured gardens. Breakfast at Guatatory (which I found on Google) was excellent, and we enjoyed the drive around the island and down the isthmus to join the I5. 

 

We made a few shopping stops, without buying much, before arriving at South Coast Plaza at the confluence of the I5, the 405 and the 73. We've come here shopping many times - it's a huge shopping 'resort' with a Nordstrom Rack and Off Saks 5th Avenue, both outlets for the main stores, and excellent value if you can see your way through the huge racks of shoes and clothes. It also has every other store we like to visit in the main 'mall'. 

We had agreed to stay at the Westin hotel here, and it was an inspired choice. The hotel is newly renovated with huge and comfortable rooms, friendly staff, a lovely big swimming pool, 24 hour gym, and a short stroll to the shops and restaurants. 

We swam, shopped a little, then had dinner at Claim Jumper, a chain restaurant at the mall. It was a busy place, and the food was tasty. 

San Diego; Day 9

First day without the girls, and Dom didn't relax until we heard that they'd both arrived home in Oz. We'd watched them cross the Pacific on the FlightRadar24 app. 

I'd googled somewhere to go for breakfast, and we headed in the direction of Seal Beach. Along the way we spotted a nice looking cafe and stopped at the Urban Pantry. 

We tracked coastal to the Carlsbad Premium Outlets, where Dom ordered some car parts from Jeep. 

From there it was s short run into San Diego along the 73, which is a toll road with no cash payment ability anymore. You have to pay online if you don't have a toll transponder. The 73 is new, wide and swift, compared to the I5 which travels in parallel but is heavily trafficked. 

We had booked in to the Keating Hotel on F Street, an old hotel, recently refurbished and nicely fitted out. We were given a penthouse room, which sounded much better than it was. It was comfortable, though, with a good coffee machine.

Out into the hot afternoon we ventured, taking in the sights along 5th Avenue. There were restaurants and bars at every step. We had a late lunch at 'Florent', a funkily furnished bar with a view to the street to watch the world go by. 

We wandered the rest of 5th, then up 4th, before getting ready for dinner and more people watching from an outside table on 5th Avenue.

Day 8; SF to LA; Farewell to Two

Pier 2620 was a very nice hotel in a good location. The rooms were attractively furnished and with plenty of space. The location was fine - close to the waterfront, trams and restaurants. I'd definitely stay there again. 

We drove through town to collect the girls - remarkably traffic free at 8.30am on a weekday - and headed south on Highway 101. The iPhone and the GPS both indicated about a 5 hour drive to LAX, where the girls would leave us and head for home. 

Travelling the I5 along the plains between the great mountain ranges was a little less interesting than some of the other roads we've driven. The countryside was extremely dry and dusty, interspersed with fruit and walnut orchards. There is obviously a lot of discussion happening about the water rationing that Californians are suffering, judging by the placards on fences along the way. 

We only stopped briefly, keen not to get inextricably caught in the LA gridlock. 

Approaching Tejon, still on the plains to the north of the San Gabriel range, Dom received a text (even though he's on an Australian sim) warning of flash flooding in our area, and to get to higher ground. Shortly after that, my US phone received a very loud siren, warning the same. 

Taking heed of the advice, we kept driving towards LA through the range, with the rain flooding the roads. Dom put the car in constant 4WD, and it shuddered up the range. 

On the other side of the crest we saw perhaps ten LA Fire Department trucks,  helicopter, and two light aircraft all attending a grass fire - perhaps lit by the lightening which was striking all around us. On the way down the range we passed a LAFD low loader carrying a digger, all branded in LAFD livery. These guys know about fire fighting! 

We passed another huge storm cell which remained just north east of our route, and then we were back in clear LA sunshine. The temperature had gone from 40 degrees to 17, and back to 35 in less than 40 km of travel. 

After the excitement, there was a little afternoon traffic to negotiate, and then into LAX to drop off the girls for their flights home. Nik was returning to Melbourne, and Gab on a later departure to Brisbane. It was very sad to have them leave us and I know they'd have loved to continue on the journey with us. 

The trip had taken around 8 hours. 

Dom and I drove further south to the Hyatt the Pike at Long Beach. This is our fourth stay at this hotel - we really like it here. The parking is $7 a night (a bargain in the USA), the rooms are large, comfortable and functional, and there is a lovely roof top pool. 

We headed out into the balmy west coast evening, along the marina to the Yard House, a raucous sports bar with 100 beers on tap and great food. It's always busy, but the food quality is excellent, and the beers tasty. 

Cycling the Golden Gate Bridge; Day 7

The first time I came to San Francisco, I drove over the Golden Gate twice, and never saw it, as the fog was obscuring everything but a few feet in front. 

When we were here last year with the girls, we drove in to SF at night, and we're lucky enough to have a clear morning and a great view. 

This trip we've had amazing weather. Today we'd planned to hire bikes and ride across the bridge. It was another brilliant blue day, even hotter than the past few. 

We decided to hire from a place across from our hotel on Jones Street, 'The Basically Free Bike Hire'. Intrigued, the salesman explained that if we stopped at their sister store at Crissy Field, we could 'buy' goods to the value of our hire receipt. Sounds great. 

The bikes were very comfortable and in good condition, with locks and pouches for valuables. We set off down to Fishermans Wharf, two blocks away, and then joined the bike path to the bridge. It was mostly easy going, apart from two hills - one near Fort Mason and the other as you approach the bridge. The bike and walking paths were well set up, but being used by people of varying skill levels and from different countries meant it wasn't so seamless an arrangement as it should have been. 

There were quite a lot of people doing the same thing we were, despite it being a normal weekday. We rode along the foreshore, and missed the bike shop (ah ha!) that was on the inland path. 

The bridge is a spectacular piece of engineering. It was excellent to see it up close. I only went a short way along and then returned by myself as I had an an awful cold. I hadn't wanted to miss the opportunity to ride on the bridge, though. 

As I turned back the path became busier with cyclists and walkers, and the fine lane on the bridge became an exercise in technical riding. 

Dom and the girls continued on to Sausalito where they stopped for a snack at a cool Spanish cafe. I'd found the bike shop by this stage, so they elected to ride all the way back rather than catch the ferry - impressive effort! They stopped at the shop and traded their receipt for some excellent gear - well worth it! Thanks 'Basically Free Bike Hire'!

I caught a taxi into town for a look at the shops, and wandered about mid town a little. 

We were lucky enough that our travel plans coincided with my lovely friends Chryss and Dave returning to SF from Burning Man. We'd arranged to meet at LoLos, an agave bar on Valencia Street. The margaritas were tasty and the company excellent. 

Chryss had booked us a table at Commonwealth, where we ordered the degustation menu and matching wine flight. Dinner was a delicate and considered mix of flavours, and the staff were knowledgable.

San Francisco Walking Tour; Day 6

Today we'd agreed to meet the girls at 10am and walk this fine city. 

It was another absolutely magnificent day in San Fran - blue, clear and hot.   

Our first stop was Lombard Street, the famously crooked, steep, one way street. It's a huge tourist attraction, with many tourists standing in the middle of the road. I wonder what it feels like to be a resident there - to continuously have people lining the street! It's a beautifully manicured street, with lovely gardens lining the road. 

Down dale and up hill again to Coit Tower which offered expansive views of the harbour. There was a long line to scale the tower, so we made do with ground floor views. 

We found a staircase that took us down to the Embarcadero (waterfront area) where there was a bike race going on. 

The architecture here in Frisco is incredible. Mostly quite old and ornate, and sturdy. There are no overt signs of earthquake damage in even the oldest buildings. The houses are large, and built on extremely challenging slopes. Cars are parked at 90 degrees to the hillside, on such an angle that we were all amazed they didn't just roll off. 

We arrived at a diner just as the lunch service started, so we were lucky enough to be seated outside to soak up the excellent views of the harbour while we ate. We tried fish tacos, chowder and crab and shrimp sandwiches. All excellent. 

After lunch we strolled down past all the piers, which house interactive museums, ferry terminals, and the Marketplace, which looked like a great place to buy cheeses, herbs and other groceries. 

I then went to look at the shops and cool down, and Dom and the girls walked around to AT&T park, and then to the 21st Amendment microbrewery up 2nd Street, for some refreshing ales. We all walked back to our lodgings - me through the length of Chinatown. 

We met again for dinner and drinks, first back at Bartlett Hall which was full to capacity with football fans, and then to Hard Water, a whiskey bar at the waterfront we'd walked past earlier. Both were great choices. We sat at a table on the sidewalk at Hard Water and watched the world go by, drinking fine Californian Zinfandels and tasty American whiskeys, eating cheese sticks and boudin balls. 

Vacaville & San Francisco; Day 5

Another beautiful morning and an early departure from Sacramento. The hotel was very comfortable, in a leafy, quiet area not far from town. 

We jagged a table at Denny's just before the Fathers Day rush. Excellent service and very tasty meals. 

Our next stop was the Vacaville Premium Oulets where we went our separate ways for a few hours. Nikki found some great bargains, and we all enjoyed the stroll through the outdoor shopping mall in brilliant sunshine. Again we were lucky with our timing, as by late morning the car parks were full and the lines at the cash registers long. As it is a long weekend there are plenty of people out and about. 

It was only just over an hour into San Francisco via the impressive Bay Bridge. We stopped first at our hotel, Pier 2620 down by Fisherman's Wharf, and the girls re packed their gear and left most with us. 

We caught a taxi to their hostel, the HI San Francisco, on Mason Street, close to Union Square. The girls were impressed with their four berth room, which was already occupied by an Aussie and a Kiwi!

Out into the San Franciscan afternoon we went, looking for a bar, and happened upon Bartlett Hall, a gastropub on O'Farrell Street. Excellent service, great beers and the tastiest buffalo wings I've ever had! 

We left the girls to explore SF, and we headed back to the hotel across Nob Hill. 

 

We stopped on the way back to sample some IPAs at Rogue, and then changed into warmer clothes and headed out for dinner. The temperature dropped markedly as the sun set - the coolest we've been this trip. 

We wandered around Fishermans Wharf, which was crowded. Families filled the restaurants, and a cool atmosphere was missing, sadly. The market was a happening place, though, with people queuing on the sidewalk for chowder. 

Sacramento Whistle Stop; Day 4

It was a beautiful clear morning, devoid of the haze we've seen the past few days. 

Breakfast was quick and tasty at Starbucks down the road from the hotel, then we set off via Mariposa, Highway 140 to Merced, then the 99 north to Sacramento. 

It was a hassle free drive, passing walnut plantations, dairies, citrus orchards, and the vineyards of Lodi. The roads are excellent - road tripping through America is one of our favourite pastimes. Luckily the girls enjoy it just as much. 

There is a noted police presence here, with sherriiffs in crown vics and California Highway Patrol (CHPS) on motorcycles and lowered Ford Explorers. 

We stopped at Modesto to do some shopping, and lunched at In-N-Out. The girls hadn't tried the burgers here before, so we were interested in their thoughts on Five Guys vs In-N-Out. Despite a very tasty burger, they sided with us and voted Five Guys as the winner! 

I don't know that I can keep up eating burgers every day and still fit into my clothes, but they're very tasty. And convenient. 

Continuing north, we arrived at our hotel (Hilton Garden Inn Venture Oaks; quite nice and close to the city) around 3pm, changed and took advantage of the free shuttle to town. 

It was the annual Gold Rush Day in Old Town Sacramento today, where people dressed up as characters from the 1850's. It must have been an enormous event - we saw thousands of people and evidence that there was entertainment all along the many streets of the town. The old part of town is very authentic, and vast. I'm impressed that they managed to preserve so much and so well. 

There are shops and bars, town squares, parks, a train station. 

We wandered the streets, admiring the architecture, and found a cool looking restaurant where we sat on high bar chairs and enjoyed some local beers and excellent Californian red wine, along with adventurous salads (pears with balsamic and blue cheese, pears with almonds, spicy thin beef and cheese) followed by pizzas to share. 

Another excellent day of fine company and grand vistas. 

Yosemite National Park; Day 3

We set off at 8am for Yosemite, via the southern entrance, which is not open in Winter. There were small towns along the way, majestic views, and many conversations about possible bear encounters and what to do, but no coffee! 

It was 13 degrees when we set out, but calm and excellent for hiking. We tried to buy coffee in Yosemite Village, but the cafes don't open til 11am (an Autumn thing??) so we bought $1.99 brown water. Noice. 

The squirrels in Yosemite have the plague, so obviously we shouldn't pat them. There were sooooo many cute squirrels, all of them so fluffy and pattable, and none looking particularly ill that it was hard to resist. 

After advice from the Visitors Centre ladies, we caught the shuttle bus to Stop 16 to hike up to Vernal Falls via the Mist Trail. 

There were a lot of people in the park. Parked cars, tents, push bikes, hiking. It's Labor Day weekend here. 

The walk ('hike' apparently, a walk is flat, according to the Americans) took us 1000 feet in elevation and about 6 miles in length. It was most definitely 'strenuous' but thoroughly enjoyable. 

 It was a spectacular walk, and we were all quite humbled to have spent some time here in such great weather. 

Linner (lunch & dinner combined) was at a diner in Mariposa on the way out - brilliant hamburgers and surprisingly tasty coffee. Thank you 'Happy Burger'! 

Back to the hotel for a spa and drinks at the in-house restaurant. 

Rolling down the highway; Day 2

We all slept well and set off in search of Denny's, our favourite chain restaurant for breakfast. Cheap, tasty food and bottomless coffee. 

Our destination is Yosemite National Park today. We set off towards the east - it messes with my sense of direction that east is inland, towards the desert. We joined the I5 which guided us through the mountains of Ventura county. 

It's a beautiful day, warm and quite hazy (from the bush fires that have been plaguing the state late in the summer). Back on the valley floor, traveling north on Highway 99, the mountains loom out of the haze, framing the fields of crops, walnut groves and citrus orchards. 

Missing Number 3

I bought a SIM card for my phone from Melbourne airport before we left which included unlimited data for a month. It seemed expensive at $80 when we were only going for two weeks, but the ease of being able to make local calls and Google anything anytime I now consider to be worth it, and something I'll do before each holiday. You can buy SIM cards here, but you have to find an outlet, sign forms and give details. It is such a hassle that I tend not to worry about it. 

Gabby recently tried the Five Guys Burgers and Fries chain on our recommendation (raving, really) and lunch time was Nikki's opportunity to be persuaded that these were the best burgers. No disappointment, but as the girls haven't tried In-N-Out yet, the jury is still out. 

We drove into the mountains to arrive at Oakhurst, a town just outside the southern entrance to Yosemite National Park. We checked in to the Best Western Plus, took advantage of the outdoor spa, and then walked down town to a barbecue restaurant I'd spied on the way in. 

The restaurant was empty, which usually causes me to exit quickly, but we stayed and really enjoyed our pork ribs and beans. 

Barbecue train!