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Travel notes for the USA

Drive. I can't imagine how difficult it is to try to get around this enormous country by taxi, train, plane or bus. If you're just staying in one city, however, that's a different thing - I wouldn't hire a car to stay in New York. I understand that some people wouldn't enjoy a road trip, but if you have a driver and a navigator, there's nothing better than those great roads and endless adventure opportunities. 

Tipping. It's a necessity here. Factor it in to the cost of the trip. You will need lots of one dollar notes. 

Taxes. Sales tax is different in every state and is added on at the register, not included in the advertised price. Hotels charge all sorts of taxes on top of the advertised rates including occupation tax and sometime resort fees, which are usually hefty. Oregon has no sales tax, making it a great state to stop and shop. 

Internet. Having the ability to google everything from accommodation to hiking trails to local craft breweries without relying on hotel Internet is invaluable. You can purchase pre-paid SIM cards that last for a month. I tried a couple of carriers and found T-Mobile to be the best - fast, clear voice calls and excellent internet coverage. 

Dogs in shops and restaurants. Not something I'm used to yet, but the habit of taking your dog everywhere is widespread in the USA and downright common in LA. 

Last stop: Los Angeles

The road from Las Vegas to LA is the I15, and the trip should be about 4 hours. The road was very slow due to traffic, but the scenery is some of my favourite. Wide open desert plains, currently the greenest I've ever seen it, with new grasses and cacti in flower. 

Solar farm in the desert 

The mountains of Los Angeles are impressive, rising out of the haze ahead in multi-colored craggy splendour against the bleached blue sky. 

We'd decided to drive a short stretch of Route 66 which parallels the interstate, but as we turned off the I15, leaving all of its crazy drivers, an apocalyptic roll cloud appeared through the valley, seemingly making travel on the I15 even more hazardous. 

Massive roll cloud

Deciding not to risk it, we detoured via northern side of the San Gabriel mountains and arrived in Los Angeles on the I5. It took us six hours instead of four to make the trip, and we were a little weary. 

Staying in West Hollywood means that we could put the car away and walk to restaurants and bars. We found great versions of each, eating at The Den on Sunset Boulevard. 

The next day we chose to hike to the Hollywood sign. I've been trying to get close to this sign for some time, and managed to google directions to the best vantage point on Mt Lee. We hiked from Griffith Canyon parking lot to the published sign viewing points (very limited view), and then continued up the service road to the summit of Mt Lee, to spectacular views over Los Angeles, and a great view of the back of the sign. 

It was an excellent hike through the canyon on good, open dirt trails. It was a ten kilometre round trip, with over 1500 feet in climb. We were pleased to have started out early to beat the crowds, and enjoy the peace of the bush. There were wildflowers everywhere. 

Bronson Caves, where Batman (TV show) was filmed

Lunch at the only LA Shake Shack was warranted, and rewarding. Defintely my new favourite fast food burger joint. 

The jacaranda trees and jasmine are flowering in LA, making a walk through the streets a very fragrant adventure. We spent the afternoon shopping at the Third Street Promenade at Santa Monica, one of my favourite haunts. I like the wide streets and the cafes and restaurants and buskers. 

We met up with the lovely Chryss, who happened to be in town too, and had some excellent cocktails at The Misfit, a great bar just off the promenade. Dark wood paneling, leather bar stools, bar men with only numbers as names in a nod to prohibition days. 

Watching the sun set into the ocean under a clear blue sky with wonderful company - perfect. 

Today was our last day in America. I'm happy to be going home to see our family and friends but disappointed to leave this adventure behind. We've had a great time. 

This morning we hired bikes and rode south from Santa Monica on the beach bike path. Perfect weather - warm and sunny. We rode around Marina Del Ray and as far as LAX, geeking out as the aircraft departed over our heads out over the coast. 

Doing some excercise while seeing more of the country has been great fun. 

Well, that's it, Friends. We're at the airport, all checked in and ready to go. We've had a great adventure and been lucky enough to stay safe over the thousands of miles we've travelled. I couldn't ask for more. 

Thanks for reading. Until next time! 

It's Vegas, Baby

Many people I've met haven't enjoyed their time in Las Vegas, but I certainly do. This is my fifth visit and I'm still not over it!

We chose to stay here this time for the weather (very soon we'll be heading back to a Victorian winter), the cheap but luxurious hotels, the shopping and just the general surprise that Vegas and her inhabitants present. The gardens of the Strip hotels are impressive, with waterfalls and pine forests and gondolas in canals and the pervasive smell of jasmine flowers. 

I'm always entertained here. 

Valet foyer of the Venetian

We've shopped and done some time at the pool and rested and organized our gear for the trip home. It's been relaxing, but then today we decided to see a little more of the natural beauty of the desert. 

Red Rock Canyon is an easy 35 minutes' drive from the Strip. It boasts a visitor centre and a 13 mile scenic drive with many viewing stops along the way. There are hikes for most fitness levels and we would have liked to explore more than we did. We took two short hikes - one into the Calico Hills, canyons of beautiful red sandstone, several rock pools and amazing wild flowers. 

It was a spectacular park, and very popular on a Saturday. Take plenty of water - it was 38 degrees and searingly hot in the sun. And dry. 

Lake Tahoe to Las Vegas, Nevada

We left Lake Tahoe early for another big day of driving to Las Vegas. We chose the 207 across the range (at 7,000 plus feet) into the farming valley and the 395 South, which runs all the way along the eastern side of the range that is home to the highest peak in the USA - Mount Whitney (over 14,000 feet). 

We were treated to spectacular views of soaring mountains and great driving roads with little traffic. We crossed roaring rivers of snowmelt, sagebrush painting the hillsides bright olive green. 

The rocky outcrops and roads along the valley reminded me of the old western movies when someone would be watching the carriage train from above, dislodging a trickle of rocks, alerting the pioneers.  

A number of the passes through the range were still closed after winter, including the one into the eastern gate of Yosemite. 

We left the 395 at Mono Lake, an enormous inland lake with no outlet, so it is salty, with its own interesting ecosystem. 

The road through the desert was a treat. Huge blue sky, great roads, wildflowers galore, military bases, UFOs and aliens to watch for. Part of the 375 is called the Extraterrestrial Highway as there have been numerous UFO sightings from this road. The famed Area 51 borders the road, as does Nellis Airforce Base. There are only a few buildings along the route so there would not be much unnatural light at night - perfect for star gazing! And plane spotting. Signs along the highway alert drivers to low flying aircraft. 

We rolled into Las Vegas late in the afternoon to 36 degrees - the hottest it's been all holiday. The Venetian staff welcomed us and we gratefully relaxed into our 20th floor suite. 

Rooms are quite cheap in Vegas, but the hotels on the strip are enormous! This one has 7,000 rooms. It is tricky finding your way around too - trying to get out of the building can be a challenge.  

We have a view of the mountain range to the west, and the lively Las Vegas Strip. 

Yes, real gondolas! 

Napa to Lake Tahoe, California

These last weeks of the trip have been 'winged'. We had no real plans to go to Napa or anywhere in particular once we reached the west coast. 

In the name of relaxing before we fly home we agreed to spend several days in LA, but then the accommodation prices meant that four days in Las Vegas was less than two in LA, not to mention the difference in parking your car ($40 per night in LA, $0 in Vegas). So - Las Vegas it is. On the way we decided to visit Lake Tahoe, which has incredibly cheap accommodation right now as they are between seasons, like Jackson. 

We left Napa under cool, foggy skies, and stopped at Vacaville, one of the big Simon outlet malls. It was lovely and quiet and we could shop and pay without lining up. Last time we were here with the girls it was extremely busy by early afternoon. 

The Californian sun dissipated the fog and left a wide blue sky and a warm day. 

I have found a new favourite drive - the I80 up into the mountains - wide, concrete, fast, snow capped mountains rising quickly in the distance, flanked by pine forests, brilliant blue sky above. 

I'm such a California girl. 

Our first peek at Lake Tahoe was exciting - it was obviously much bigger than I'd ever imagined. The drive from Tahoe City in the north to South Lake Tahoe and across the Nevada border to the Hard Rock Hotel was peppered with great views of the mountains, the lake shore and the epic forests. There are all manner of houses here - from walled stone chalets to tiny cottages built early last century, camping grounds and hotels old and new. 

The going was a little stop-start due to several sections of roadwork being carried out now after the snow melt. 

We reached our hotel, checked in and headed out into the rapidly cooling evening for dinner. The town is similar to our ski towns, and to Aspen and Jackson. Lots of hire places, shops selling shirts emblazoned with the town name, and restaurants. Some of the businesses were closed for the down time between the winter and summer crowds, but we found a cool burger joint with outside seating around a fire pit and a live band. 

The next day we hired bikes and rode around the lake a little further to Nevada Beach, a lovely camping area right on the water. 

The lake is enormous - even flying around its coastline would have taken most of the day! 

Wine country of California

From Bandon we drove down the US101, along the spectacular coastline and into California.  The Redwood Highway, as it is nicknamed, is bordered by dark, lush, damp, rich forest, uncleared by fire in many decades. The redwoods are truly impressive in their height and girth. 

There are some big stands of very old trees, and the road has been left as a two lane strip so as not to encroach on the forest. Not a road you want to meet a semi trailer coming the other way on! 

The redwoods slowly gave way to oak forest and then farms and finally acres of grape vines as we entered the famous wine region of Northern California. 

We stayed a night in Santa Rosa then drove through the Sonoma valley and into Napa, wandering along the side roads and country lanes to see the vineyards at work. 

Black Bear Diner - great breakfast!

We didn't do any wine tasting this time - I think it's best to take a tour to combat both the driving issue and the tasting fees. 

I booked the Embassy Suites at Napa (part of the Hilton chain) where we were given a huge suite, free evening drinks and included made-to-order breakfast, which was excellent. It was a 15 minute walk into Napa township to the restaurants. We had a great dinner and enjoyed some of the valley's tastiest wines!